No Rolls Gracie in the water, but I have fun trying

Last night I read the chapter on Rolls Graice in The Gracie Way. Rolls' story is amazing and tragic. I had no idea he surfed. It makes perfect sense though. Surfing is dominated by smaller folks and the best employ incredible balance and technique to submit the powerful ocean. I surfed quite a bit in high school and my first couple years of college; however, weight gain and shoulder problems sidelined me for the better part of the last 14 years. Last summer, when I started feeling healthier, I decided to get my butt back in the water.

Came home from New Orleans to find my brand spankin' new surfboard by Holeman Surf Designs waiting for me. It's custom for a bigger guy like me with a history of shoulder problems. JP Holeman sponsors one of my best friends and eco-warrior Patrick Zabrocki. I'm stoked to support Pat via his sponsor and to hit Black's Beach this morning for my first session with the board.

Board Photos:

Black's this morning ~6:15am (two dark spots in the first photo are dolphins!):






The waves were great for summer. Waist to chest high with occasional head high and overhead sets. But far too crowded (The photos above do not show the main break, which is about 1/4mile north). Imagine very crowded mat space. Assume Black and Brown belts get as much space as they want and the Purples and Blues take whatever is left over. If they are lucky, Whites may find a 4x4 space but must yield to the upper belts. Well...I'm essentially a White Belt surfing at a world class break on a holiday weekend with a south swell (conditions that attract more Blacks and Browns than Mundials, PanAms, or ADCC)!!! I managed to catch a few waves and have some fun, but getting wet again was reward enough.